Spécialités du Massif Central

The first thought that comes to mind when Massif Central is mentioned is "cheese" (Cantal, Saint Nectaire, Bleu d'Auvergne, Fourme d'Aubrac to name but a few) and the second is "beef" either from Salers or l'Aubrac. 

This is a country of mountains, of pastures and cattle.  Not only cows and bulls people the heights but sheep, thousands of sheep as well with their traditional transhumance.  

Pigs are another source of income and the region is famous for its charcuterie. The little town of Laguiole known for its beef and its cheese is also known around the world for its unique design of steak knives.

You can find the beautiful Laguiole knives just mentioned all over France and abroad now, including via the internet of course.  Beware of counterfeits...  You might be interested to hear about the controversy surrounding the so-called "stealing" of the name "Laguiole" for commercial purposes by a Parisian industrialist . This is very upsetting for the people of the village but a very interesting issue to ponder about in our time of globalisation.  What is equally interesting is the almost ceremonious making of the local aligot.  The recipe is simple as all true mountain based recipes are with wholesome local ingredients.  I am sure it can be adapted to any place with good potatoes and good melting cheese at hand without incurring any legal pursuits.The Massif Central is also a land of weavers, with a very developed textile industry in the past.  Millau (where the viaduct is) was the capital of gloves and Mazamet is still known for the making and commerce of wool.

A la découverte du Massif Central

"one of the loveliest spots on earth... a country without roads, without guides, without any facilities for locomotion, where every discovery must be conquered at the price of danger and fatigue... a soil cut up with deep ravines, crossed in every way by lofty walls of lava and furrowed by numerous torrents"

This is how George Sand described the Massif Central in the middle of the 19th century. It has since become more accessible but it has retained its vast and stunning landscapes.

Covered by thick forests and sliced by numerous rivers and lakes, these once volcanic uplands are geologically the oldest part of France and culturally one of the most firmly rooted in the past. Nature rules there and the air and the water remain unpolluted, thus attracting families who enjoy both the winter or the summer months during the school holidays and spa lovers all the year round. It's not only the favourite place of hikers, campers and skiers but an attraction to scientists, ecologists, historians or first or second generation farmers.

The Massif Central has been settled by humans probably longer than anywhere in France.  At its core lies Auvergne, an historic region and former province of central France, whose name is derived from a Celtic people whose leader was Vercingétorix, chief of the Gauls who defied Julius Ceasar and was defeated by him.

The region has cultivated its traditions and language with a

passion. The ancestral language is occitan; it was widely spoken in the southern half of the territory from Italy to Spain and is still understood and spoken by five million people south of the river Loire.
The inhabitants are said to be reserved, serious and close to their money.  Lots of jokes are made about the Auvergnats' legendary tightfistedness, not unlike the Scots'reputation for being cautious with their money.
This is a country of landscapes rather than cities.  The best known places apart from Auvergne and its spectacular extinct volcanoes (called puys)   are

the Cévennes and R.L.Stevenson's trails,  the Rouergue and l'Aveyron.  The Ardèche  in the east and the Tarn in the south offer canyons and rapids to the most adventurous.
However the culture of the past is embedded in a few towns and villages worth a detour: Le Puy-en-Velay famous for its green lentils and delicate laces) spiked with gothic pinnacles of lava, steep streets and churches perched in the air, Clermont-Ferrand, the capital built in volcanic stone and some of the most beautiful villages of France: Saint Cirq Lapopie, La Couvertoirade, Conques or Cordes-sur-ciel.

"Le petit monde de Pagnol" on your plate!

 








Right before the residential weekend at Madingley Hall, Christine and I held a French on your plate workshop at Cook's Barn. Here are a few photos of the fantastic evening that we enjoyed learning about Marcel Pagnol's Provence followed by a 4 course meal (see details in below post with delicious recipe!)

Participants learned about Pagnol's films, provençal culture and language, see details in blog post about Madingley.     

Also a reminder that our next workshop is on Saturday 23rd March 2013 from 4.30pm - 8.30pm.                  
This month we are visiting the Brittany region of France, filled with music and tradition. To find out more you can email us or you can also book online.

"Le petit monde de Pagnol"

A group of over a dozen of us gathered last weekend in the cosy wood panelled King’s Room overlooking the beautiful grounds of Madingley Hall.  Participants joined TWTF to enjoy another residential course that took us all to a new part of France in space and time, to “Le petit monde de Marcel Pagnol”.   Marcel Pagnol’s name is linked to the two films mostly shown in this country:  “Manon des sources” and “Jean de Florette” which are set in Provence.  Daniel Auteuil’s remake “La fille du puisatier” is soon to be released in UK cinemas. All three are good yet, to my mind, a far cry from the originals directed by Pagnol himself. The remakes all have the merit of keeping Pagnol’s name alive, providing one doesn’t get distracted by that of some more contemporary famous (or infamous) actors.  English students may stumble over the “provençalisms” of “La Gloire de mon père” and “Le Château de ma mère", but very little is known of the man behind the stories, Marcel Pagnol, his life, the immense success he had in his time and the “little world" he created around him.  Pagnol, member of the prestigious Académie française since 1947, is looked upon as classical writer. 

Pagnol is not only highly celebrated in Provence and in Marseille, the European capital of culture for 2013, he is internationally renowned. Pagnol is known for doing a lot for his region.  The “marseillais” accent ceased to be mocked once Pagnol’s films were shown! He made the place and the people endearing, funny and lovable in his films such as “Marius”, Fanny” and “César”. The scene of “La partie de cartes” in “Marius” is as much cult as Cézanne’s painting of a similar card game in a South of France little café. These films were the first French “talkies”.  Pagnol directed the films himself, surrounded by his team of actors and technicians in his own little “Provençal  Hollywood” as it was known, hence the name of  “le petit monde de Pagnol”. The films were inspired by his own plays and other Southern topics and stories. He was criticised by his peers for being too theatrical but the public didn’t care and actors such as Fernandel, Raimu, Pierre Fresnay or Orane Demazis became immortalised on film.

Pagnol was very attached to his roots, his family, and the memory of his childhood holidays in the scented hills covered with “garrigue” and lulled by the song of “cigales”.  Provence made him the man he was and in turn he celebrated this part of France beautifully. The two are indissociable. He was fascinated by the people, the ordinary people around him, the way they spoke, their daily activities, their idiosyncrasies and their destiny. It was quite touching to see that this little boy of simple origin reached the summit of wealth and fame through “working hard and well” at school as recommended by his father who was a school teacher in awe of “l’école de la république”. 

Pagnol bears witness to the “making of France” into the “hexagone”  as we know it today through the educational system where the teaching of the French language was made compulsory for all. Of course there remained a touch of accent but Fernandel told us above how meaningful that is and Gilbert Bécaud sang it for us.  The whole group took pleasure in the discovery of the little world of Pagnol and their comments were almost unanimously impressive.This was one of the most enjoyable weekends so far.... See you next time...  Finger on the calendar button!